Examples of autobiography surfers
Best surfing books.
Best surf books for beginnersRead them. Love them.
I’ll start this posting with a small caveat: If you’re not into surfing history then you probably won’t be interested in these books. After all, good surfing biographies are nothing if not a window into the history of our sport.
Now, there are bios and then there are Bios.
What’s the difference? Well, a guy like Mick Fanning is a great surfer, but he hasn’t been around long enough to warrant chronicling his life. Even so, he has a bio.
Surfing books
Have I read it? No. Why? Because, in my highly subjective opinion, he still has a long way to go (plus, I couldn’t get a free copy).
Fortunately, there are many surfers who have lived (and some who have died), who have left behind serious legacies.
Some of the surfers are loud and controversial while others are quiet and unassuming, but both types share one thing in common: impact. They’ve had an impact on the sport, culture, and collective conscience of the surfing community.
There are many biographies that I’ve en
